Our journey began today at 10:00 am at
the Piazza St. Maria in Trastevere. This plaza is near our apartment
and will be the meeting place for much of our time here in Rome.
Roman history as seen through it's art is not easy to follow in a
chronological order. Not only can centuries of history be found
within one site, but each sites history is subject to redefinition
through restorations and archaeological discoveries. You can not go
from site A through to site Z and say; this is Roman history. But
that is what we will attempt to do.
Our first two stops today were the
Medieval churches of Santi Quattro Coronati and San Clemente. The
San Clemente Basilica stands as a perfect example of the richness of
complexities that can be found within one site. There is a 12th
century church built above a 4th century church that is
built upon a 1st century republican period private home
which includes a early 3rd century Mithraic temple. Each
of these levels had responses to the earlier periods in the artwork
that was created, and in the reuse of materials from the earlier
buildings. The upper Church is built in the traditional Basilica
conventions with a flat ceiling, a nave with an apse on one end, and
two isles separated by columns. The lower church is a series of
catacombs that still have remnants of fluted columns and frescoes
dating to the 5th century. This church was founded in
Rome at a time when religion was not personal but rather ritualistic
in nature.
The artwork found within the Basilica
is as varied as the history of the building itself. The upper church
includes frescoes by Masolino and Masaccio from the 13th
century as well as 18th century restorations to the
ceiling, and frescoes by Chiari. The lower church has remnants of
11th century frescoes as well as 5th century
Byzantine frescoes. In the earliest sections of the church there is
an alter in the temple that depicts the symbols of the Persian cult
Mithras from the 3rd century. The imagery found in this
church will lay the groundwork for understanding what we will see
over the next few days. We will see repeating patterns and symbols
that will allow us to better understand the reasons behind the art.
(No photos were allowed within this Basilica.)
Our afternoon included a trip to the
area of Rome that is home to the rich history of The Forum, The
Coliseum, and The Arch of Constantine. The Forum began in the 1st
century as a marketplace in the time of King Servius Tullius. Located
in the heart of the city, it became a mix of both sacred and secular
buildings and iconography. Under Imperial rule the Forum grew as
each new emperor had a new arch or column erected to show their
victories and thus gain the favors of the Gods. These images began to
make their way into the churches, and Imperial iconography was used
to influence the people. As Christianity began to take over as the
common religion, the temples were made into churches, or churches
were built over the temple sites. Many of the original arches and
columns can still be seem today, and excavation is still in progress
at the site.
The Arch of Septimius Severus |
The Coliseum |
The Coliseum, which is located just to the East of the
Forum was the first amphitheater to be built in stone, and was the
largest ever built by the Romans, holding more that 55,000 people.
The Emperors used the Coliseum to hold spectacles and events to win
the favor of the people. The most common of these events were fights
to the death between gladiators, or between animals and men. This was
also the location of many executions, and is now dedicated to
Christian martyrs. The Coliseum highlights one of the basic
principles of Roman architect, a repeating pattern of arches . Although the Coliseum did receive damage through earthquakes on several occasions, many
of the stones that are missing from the exterior today were actually
used for other buildings in Rome.
The Arch of Constantine was
dedicated in 315AD to honor Constantine's victory over his co-Emperor
Maxentius, The arch includes elements of previous arches, seemingly
attempting to link himself to the past in Romans eyes. These building
represent the beginnings of Roman history, which is as complex as the
buildings themselves.
More tomorrow!
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